Sep 4 2010

Fall Lawn Aeration – Do It

Core aeration is the single most important thing you can do to your lawn, and the best time to aerate your lawn is the fall. Now seriously listen to me guys: if you want to have a thick, green, healthy lawn, core aeration is the foundation. If your lawn looks bad right now, then get a core aeration done this weekend.

Lawn Aeration Benefits

Aerating the lawn is a process whereby cores of soil are pulled up from the turf using a machine that is a little bit bigger than a lawn mower. The machine has tines on it that pierce down into the lawn and actually pull out cores that are each about the size of a roll of dimes. This accomplishes a couple things:

1) Hard compacted soil (especially clay soil) is effectively loosened when cores are removed. When you remove the cores, the rest of the soil “gives way” and becomes literally “aerated.” In addition, the extra space created allow the turf roots to expand. An expanded root system is a thicker root system – and thicker roots make a thicker top!

2) Aerating the lawn helps control your lawn’s thatch layer. Thatch is a layer of organic material in every lawn that resides just at the soil line. It is made up of dead grass material, leaves and other stuff and serves many good purposes. However, when the thatch layer gets too thick, it can cause problems. It will stop water and nutrients from getting deep into the soil, as well as harbor disease. It also creates shallow rooting. When you aerate, you are punching holes in the thatch, enough to keep it managed properly.

3) Aeration allows nutrients and water to hit the root system direct. Since you are going to open up the lawn when you aerate, you might as well throw some good nutrients down on the lawn at the same time. You will never get as good of penetration then at the time of aerating. Follow my instructions in my book to know what to put down.

Those are the main reasons to have your lawn aerated this year. Even if your lawn is super thick and healthy already, you should aerate it every fall.


Aug 29 2010

Grub Worms Found In Your Lawn

Ok guys, listen and read carefully – grub worms are a real threat to lawns across the United States and if you have an infestation, you are going to lose big areas of your lawn or even the whole thing. I am a HUGE proponent of natural lawn care, but there are times when you gotta break out some pesticides to ensure your lawn stays safe. But the WAY YOU DO IT can still be minimal impact and get maximum results. We call this “Integrated Pest Management.”

Brown Spots – Is It Grub Worms?

Towards the latter part of the summer, I get dozens of emails from people wondering why and what those brown areas are in their lawns. Now, there are any number of reasons your lawn turns brown in the summer. It could be from poor irrigation, heat stress, sod web worm insects, dollar spot fungus or maybe, just maybe — GRUB WORMS!

what caused these brown areas?

What you need to do is get down on your knees and start digging in that lawn! try to pull up the brown grass and see what you find. The tell-tail sign that you have grub worms is your lawn will pull right up and roll back like you are rolling back a carpet.

Does the lawn peel back?

Once you peel back theĀ  lawn, start looking for little shrimp underneath – if you find them, then you have grub worm issues. I also recommend you look in several places. Look around the edges, in the middle of the brown spots, everywhere. If you find them, this is what they look like.

lawn grubs

How To Kill Grubs

Now you are going to need a pesticide to kill these guys. I know you want your lawn to be natural, but would you have it become naturally DEAD? No, so we need to treat it, but do it responsibly! Use the product below, use a hand spreader and only apply the product to the brown areas and 24″ outside of the brown areas. Don’t blanket treat the lawn. This is what we call Integrated Pest Management – just using enough pesticide to cure the problem but not going overboard. Be sure to water in the treatment immediately and then go ahead and re-seed in 3 weeks. Remember, the idea is to only put the pesticides in and around the affected areas and no where else. Of course, you need to monitor the situation to see if damage shows up in other areas of the lawn. The idea is to be conscious of what you are doing!